Shoe and method of making the same



July 23,1935; J. LO BURGIO 2,008,916

SHOE AND- METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME Filed June 19, 1933 Z Nl/ENT'OR Jose 0;) lama/ 77 0.

Patented July 23, 1935 r UNITED STAT ES PAT ENT OFFICE 2,008,916 4 SHOE AND' METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME Joseph Burgio, Marion, Ill. Application, June 19,1933, Serial No.. 676,491 4 Claims. (01. 12-142) This invention relates generally to shoes and: On its flesh side 6, the sole. 2 is provided with-.a method of making the same and has for its prime recess. or groove for receiving a shank-piece or object the provision of a shoe structure embodymetallic stiffener l.2,l which extends in. suitable .ing a one-piece sole, in the construction of which position from the heel-seat 4 to the break ll of 5 merely one lasting operation is requisite, and in the, shoe. 7 v

which the upper of the shoe issecured directly The stiffener I7. is mounted, in its groove. and to the: eut'sole,v an inner sole beingeliminated, attached to the sole 2 by suitable fastening ele- My invention has for another object the proments such as tacks l fl, and aIshank-cover l3, of vision, in a shoe construction of the character suitablematerial is laid on the last (not shown),

10 'described,;of a one-piece sole suitable for the for extendingv substantially over and from the. 10

manufacture of both welt and glued or so-called heel-seat4tothe break it of the shoe. The sole compo shoes, and-'in either case highly suitable '2 and its attached stiffener I2 is mounted on the especially, though not exclusively, for the manulast over the cover l3, and the shoe-upper l is faeture of shoes for feminine wear, inv which a then arranged about, or built upon, the last.

relatively light, flexible sole is desirable or re- The rearportion of the: upper lis preferably 15 quisitc. stretched or pulled to and over the bevel 3 of .the

And with the above and other objects in view, heel-seat 4, and suitable fastening, elements, such my invention resides the unique method of as lasting nails I lare driven through the marshoe construction and the novel features of ginl5 of the upper l and sole 2 and clinched in form, construction, arrangement, and comb-inathe cover 13 for attaching the same securely to- 20 tion of parts presently described andpointed. out gether, as best seen in Figures 1 and 2, in. the claims. Into the channel 5. is preferably applied a suit- In the accompanying drawing,,- able filler or plastic material l6, and the balance Figure l; is a bottom plan view; partly broken of the upper l, from the heel-seat 4 to the toe of v away, of a shoe of the welt-type, embodying one the shoe, is stretched over the last, with the 25 former myinven-tio'n; V 1" marginal portion of the upper l foldably in V- Ffgure 2 is a fragmentary sectional view taken shape, as at ll, inserted into the channel 5, The approximately along the line-2-2, Figure l iree margin, l8 of the upper then resides upon Figure 3 is a bottom plan view; partly broken the inside; face of, the outer flap 9, and is skived 3 away and in section, of a shoe of the glued or suitably so astodimi-nshin thickness toward the Compo" type, embodying another form of my edge thereof. invention; and A welt H is then pressed or inserted into the Figured is a fragmentary sectional view taken fold I] of the, upper l. The welt l9 differs, so approximately along the line 4-4' Figure 3-, I far aslE am aware, from the usual form of welt Referring now more in detail and by reference in being of a wedge-shaped cross-section, its 35 characters to the drawing, which illustratespraclower face being ski-ved and preferably chantieai embodiments of my invention, A designates *neled, as at, 2B,,ior providing a lip 2| of full 2. shoe of the welted-type which'includesthe ;th:lckness of the welt l8; at the outer margin usual upper I, for w "ch is provided a one-piecethereoL-the channel 20 being complementary to sole 2 of suitable material and preferably conthe'beveled margin t8 of the upper I for over- 40 toured to the desired outline, the sole .2 at its lying and firmly engaging the same with the-uprearportionbing suitably marginally skived or :per face of the outer flap 9 when the hp 2!. beveled, asat 3, and finished to provide a heelresides snugly flushwise with the outsole margin. seat 4. e A- suitable securing means, as a line of stitch- The sole 2 throughout its entire fore part,ffrom"ing 22, is then run through the welt 19, the up- 45 the heelseat 4 to the toe of the shoe, is slit .inper-margin l8, and the sole-flap 9 for attaching wardly and "thereby provided with. a channel 5, the margin l8 to the lower wall of the slit or which extends around the lateral side or periphchannel 5 and securing the sole 2 to the upper l, eral face of the sole 2 and which is disposed prefas best seen in Figure 2.

erably somewhat nearer to the inner or flesh side- Thereafter, the heel 23 may be applied to the 50 6 of the'sole 2 than to the outer or grain side I heel-seat 4,, and the other manufacturing operathereoi. tions applied to the shoe in the usual and cus- The channel?) splits the marginal portions of tomary manner, for forming the finished shoethe sole 2 into an upper or inner flap -8 and an product.

opposing lower or on er'fiap 9, eachicoextensive' It will be seen that, by my improved shoewith the channel ,5, which latter is of sufficient construction, the shoe A has the advantage of depth to allow the stitching of the upper l to the a welt shoe, inasmuch, as merely a single lasting outer flap 9, as presently appearing, in such manthereof is required; while, onv the other hand, the nor as to leave the central portion of the sole 2 use of an inner sole, heretofore so far as I am intact, integral, and of a single thickness. aware, required in welted-shoes, is eliminated.

B designates a shoe-construction of the glued or Compo type, which includes the usual upper i, for which is provided a one-piece sole 24 of suitable material and preferably contoured to the desired outline in the usual manner. In

its rear portion the sole 24 is split completely across its width and thereby provided with an inner tongue 25 on its flesh side 26 and an outer tongue 21 on its grain side 28, each tongue 25, 21 preferably extending from the break 29 of the shoe rearwardly to the heel thereof.

The rear margins of the tongues 25, 21, from the break 253 to the heel of the shoe are suitably skived and beveled, as at 30, 3I, respectively, the bevel 39 of the inner tongue 25 overlapping the bevel 35 of the outer tongue 21, the latter being also suitably finished for providing a heel-seat 32. The concealed face of the inner tongue 25 is provided with a longitudinal groove or channel 33 extending from the break 29 approximately to the heel-seat 32 for reception of a shank-stiffener 34, as best seen in Figures 3 and 4.

The fore part of the sole 24, from the break 29 to the toe of the shoe, is slit inwardly and thereby provided with a channel 35,, which extends around the lateral side of peripheral face of the sole 24, and which is disposed approximately equally intermediate of the flesh side 26 and grain side 28 thereof.

The channel 35 spits the marginal portions of the sole 24 into an upper or inner flap 36 and an opposing lower or outer flap 31, each coextensive with the channel 35, which latter is of suflicient depth to admit the marginal portions of the upper I as will presently appear, in such manner as to leave the central portion of the sole 24, under the ball of the foot, intact, integral, and of a single thickness.

The sole 24 being provided as described, the

stiffener 34 is by suitable nails 38 attached tothe' inner tongue 25, so as to be in registration with the groove 33 in the outer tongue 21. The sole 24 is then suitably mounted on the last (not shown), and the tongues 25, 21, are securely glued or cemented together, whereby the integrity of the sole 24 is substantially restored, and the stiffener 34 is snugly enclosed in its proper position between the tongues 25, 21, thus obviating the need of a stifiener-cover, as employed in the shoe A hereinbefore described.

The upper l is then arranged about or built upon the last, and the portion of the upper I from the break 29 to the heel of the shoe is glued and then stretched or pulled to and over preferably merely the bevel 30 of the tongue 25, suitable fastening elements 38, as lasting nails or staples, being driven through the margin 39 of the upper I, and clinched in the inner tongue 25 for retaining the upper I in position during the hardening or setting of the glue or cement by which the upper I is attached to the sole 24 in the customary manner.

The margin 48 of the portion of the upper I' from the break 29 to the toe of the shoe is suitably beveled or skived and likewise glued, and the upper I is then stretched over the last with the margin 49 neatly inserted in the channel 35 of the sole 24, the parts being retained in such position by any suitable means, not shown, during the hardening or setting of the adhesive for attaching the margin 40 to the lower wall, or if desired, to both walls of the slit or channel 35, and the sole 24 to the upper l.

The heel M is then attached to the heel-seat 32, and the manufacture of the shoe 3 is thereafter completed in the manner well known to those skilled inthe art.

It will be seen that, in the glued-shoe B, all stitching is omitted, and reliance is had on the cement alone for securing and maintaining the upper in the interior of the sole between the flapportions 25 and 21 and. also for securing said flap-portions in place.

It will be understood that other changes and modifications in the form, construction, arrangement and combination of the several parts of my new shoe constructions and in the methods of manufacturing the same may be made and substituted for those herein shown and described without departing from the nature and principles of my invention.

Having thus described my invention, what claim and desire to secure bygLetters-Patent is,-

1. A shoe comprising, in combination, a sole having a slit extending inwardly from its peripheral face intermediate its inner and outer sides, said slit dividing the marginal portion of the sole into upper and lower flaps, an upper having its margin beveled and foldably disposed in said slit,

and means'including a and within the folded margin of the upper for securing the upper to the lower sole-flap, the welt having a beveled face for engaging the beveled face of the margin of the upper.

2. A shoe comprising, in combination, a sole having a slit extending inwardly from its periphwelt disposed in theslit' eral face intermediate its inner and outer sides,

said-slit dividing the marginal portion of the sole into upper and lower flaps, an upper having its margin beveled and foldably disposed in.

said slit, and means including a welt disposed in the slit and within the folded margin of the upper for securing the upper to the lower soleflap, the welt having a beveled face for engaging engaging the lower sole-flap.

3. The method of making a shoe which consists in inwardly forming a slit in the peripheral the beveled face of the upper-'margin and a lip for face of an outsole and thereby dividing the margin of the sole into opposing inner and outer flaps, lasting the shoe, folding inwardly the marginal portion of the shoe upper between the upper and lower flaps, beveling the free margin of the upper, disposing a wedge-shaped welt within the folded upper-margin for overlying the beveled portion thereof, and then stitching together the welt, the upper, and the outer flap of the sole.

4. The method of making a shoe which consists in forming a heel-seat on an outsole, inwardly forming a slit in the peripheral face of the outsole from the heel-seat to the toe of the shoe and thereby dividing such marginal portion of the sole to include opposing upper and lower flaps, forming a groove in the inner face of the outsole from the heel-seat to the brake of the shoe, mounting a shank-stiffener in said groove, concealing the shank with a cover extending from the break of the shoe to and over the heel-seat, lasting the shoe, disposing the marginal portion of the upper in said slit, nailing the rear-part of I the upper, the sole, and the cover together at the heel-seat of the shoe, and then stitching the margin of the upper tothe lower flap of the sole,

JOSEPH LO BURGIO. 

